The days of dining by plucking fruit from trees and roasting small animals over the fire, eating with fingers, and perhaps fighting with others over the scraps are long gone. Or are they?

More and more we swing our car through the drive-in, grab our food from the window, and proceed to eat with our fingers, so perhaps you need a brush-up on the basics of formal shall we say civilized dining before the great Thanksgiving feast.

Rules of civilized dining evolved because, according to Margaret Visser (Rituals of Dinner), animals are slaughtered and consumed, the guest-host relationship is a complicated interweaving of the imposition of obligation and the suspension of hostility, and the ordinary table knife is related to actual weapons of war.

Utensils were to be handled delicately, so as not to alarm. For instance, the knife was not to be held in the fist, like a weapon, nor pointed threateningly at anyone, and conversation was to be gentle, not provocative.

Now for a review of the basics on how to be the consummate Thanksgiving guest.

1. Respect time.

Arrive on time with a smile on your face and plan to have a good time. Leave on time. If it hasnt been stated, you will have to use your EQyour intuition. Watch the host (generis) for subtle cues the more formal the occasion, the more subtle the cues, i.e., changing position in his chair, sighing, and talking about what a big day we have tomorrow. As you say you must leave, expect protesting, and expect to leave anyway. Its a formality.

As our visits in the homes of others become more rare, the #1 complaint of hostesses seems to be that the guests wont go home. One woman told me her guests arrived at noon and had to be jettisoned, finally, at 10 p.m. Thats not a get-together, thats an ordel.

2. Wear your uniform. Do your job.

Yes, as the guest you have responsibilities. Dress appropriately and festively, and prepare to make it a happy occasion. Note make. It doesnt just happen; those in attendance must make it happen. Eat, drink and behave in moderation.

3. When summoned, obey the summons.

As a long-time PR person, you cant imagine how we appreciate the leader type who, when we say, Its time to take you seats, heads for the dining room and beckons her friends to come along; and when the hostess says, Shall we retire to the living room for coffee, does the same.

4. Observe protocol.

Age before rank. Special people would be the great-grandmother, then if youve invited your boss, or theres a guest of honor. The most special person sitteth on the right hand of the host and hostess, who are seated at opposite ends of the table. If there are not place cards, its appropriate to ask, Where would you like us to sit?

5. Once seated, stay awake!

Look to your hostess to lead. At this meal even the most unsuspecting people will say a grace, for instance. The hostess will indicate when to start passing things, and when she starts to eat, you may eat. Facilitate the meal for others start passing the shared items, the salt and pepper (both), the butter, the cranberry sauce, and the gravy.

6. The passing of things.

If your plates are served, then when someone asks for the salt, pick up both the salt and pepper and place them down beside the person next to you. They are not passed hand-to-hand, and only the requesting party may use them. Inefficient? Manners are not about efficiency.

7. Make conversation.

Its an active thing! At a smaller seating, there may be one general conversation; in a larger group, talk with the people across from you and on either side of you. If youre conversation-challenged, work with your coach and come up with a list of conversation-starters, i.e., Did you see that great special on PBS last night? What are your plans for Christmas this year? How was the traffic at the airport? What football team are you rooting for? Start training your children young. Help them come up with a list of things to talk about. Theyll love it and feel included.

Your hostess will appreciate if you keep the conversation going, spend some time with the shy people or the octogenarian, and help with awkward silences. At formal dinners, businesses lunches and other dining occasions traditionally when the food is served, everyone starts eating and theres a silence. Someone needs to break the ice. Plan for this and be prepared with a confident and cheery, It sure gets quiet when the food comes, or Marcella, where did you find fresh arugula this time of year?

8. What about all those utensils and glasses?

The general rule is work from the outside in. Go here to review: http://www.cuisinenet.com/digest/custom/etiquette/manners_intro.shtml

9. Beginnings and endings.

The napkin. When youre seated, place your napkin in your lap. When youre finished, place your utensils on your plate; dont push it away. Place your napkin loosely to the side of your plate.

10. Odds n Ends

Sit upward in your chair; dont lean back. Dont rest your elbows on the table. Its permissible to lean forward slightly and rest part of your upper arm on the table. If you take medication, do it discretely and neither mention it nor notice it in others. Something in your mouth you dont want? The way in is the way out. Spit the olive pit into your palm and place it on your plate. Deposit the turkey bone back on the fork and place in on your plate.

What can you eat with your fingers? Artichokes, plain asparagus, bacon, bread, cookies, corn on the cob, chips, French Fries, hors doeuvres, sandwiches, small fruits, berries, and cubed cheese. When in doubt, wait and see what your hostess does.